Village Pizza Co.

11/23/05

IF EVERY NEIGHBORHOOD needs a bargain-priced pizza and pasta joint, Village Pizza Co. is probably the right kind of place for the current Cabbagetown scene. Newly opened on Carroll Street — the livelier-by-the-minute thoroughfare that acts as an unofficial main street for this historic district that was once a mini mill town — it's as bright and hopeful a sign as all the houses being rehabbed nearby. INNER CITY MOD: Outside the brick storefront, there's just enough room on the sidewalk for a bench and a couple of cool Village Pizza delivery bicycles. Inside, the look is like a shiny vision from the latest IKEA catalog. White canvas sofas flank the entryway along with low coffee tables. The windows are hung with wooden daisy chain "curtains." A long counter faces the open kitchen, where the hip, young staff works the dough machines and pizza ovens. The L-shaped dining area has a row of big, blond wooden booths with high-backed benches. SLICES AND PIES: Village Pizza chef/co-owner Wesley Phillips spent some time tossing and topping at East Atlanta Pizza. And his fresh dough pizza, with its bready crust and sweet-and-spicy sauce, bares some similarity to the pies there. Pizza by the slice starts at $1.65 for cheese. There are eight specialty pies, including pesto with mozzarella and fontina cheese, and vegan with soy "meats" and "cheeses." And there are plenty of interesting toppings, from feta and ricotta cheese, to bacon, shrimp and baked eggplant.

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